How to create a bespoke custom hat

For the past twenty seven years I have built a career as a professional milliner in the theatre and bridal industry and during that time I have created many bespoke hats and headpieces.

But what goes into creating a bespoke hat for a customer? In this blog I'm going to explain the process and how I begin from a sketch to the finished piece.

Bespoke feather and fabric rosette headpiece for bride Laura

Designing a hat/headpiece for theatre

The best way to explain the process is to start with my theatrical millinery work. For the past twenty seven years I have worked as a theatrical milliner and costume prop maker. This has meant working alongside costume designers, costume supervisors, production teams, actors, directors and costume makers to produce what is needed for that particular show.

When a theatre show is designed, a costume designer is employed by the theatre or production company to come up with costume ideas. These can be in the form of beautiful sketches, a mood board, inspirations from books, the internet or sometimes its just an idea not yet fully formed into an actual design.

My job is to interpret those designs from a 2D sketch or photographic image into something that is 3D. So I have to work out the scale, the angles, how its going to be created, how to work with the materials the designer has chosen they want the hat/headpiece to be made from (if indeed it can be made from it) And most importantly how it will be worn on the head (this is crucial for stage shows where a wobbly hat will distract the actor and audience!)

When interpreting designs I also have to listen and take on board the needs of the designer, the actor and anything else that might influence the design of the hat. For example-

• Is the actor going to enter the stage through a door wearing a huge hat? Will it fit?

• How will the hat be attached - does it have to be removed onstage?

• Is the actor going to be wearing a wig?

• Do they dance or runabout in the hat?

• Will a large brim interfere with lighting or sound?

• Will the material used for the hat be too heavy or uncomfortable?

Designing a bespoke, custom hat/headpiece

So I use the same principal when it comes to a client who has chosen me to design their bespoke hat. First of all I Iisten to what the client needs.....

• What is the hat/headpiece for? A wedding? The races?

• Has the client worn a hat/headpiece before?

• What outfit will they be wearing?

• What kind of hair do they have and how will it be worn with the hat/headpiece?

• Their budget?

• Timescale?

• What colours/fabrics they like/dislike?

All of these questions/considerations are equally important as each other because they all have to be answered before I can begin designing anything. For example, a client might be really keen on wearing an oversized bridal headpiece to their wedding but never having worn a hat before they might not be comfortable with it and this will distract from their special day.

Once I've got answers to these questions I can begin the design process. The client might have a vague idea of what they would like or they might have a strong opinion on what they do or don't like (and sometimes this is the easiest client to work with!) Maybe they have a board on Pinterest or a magazine clipping - although it's important to say I don't copy other people's work.

Initial sketch for Laura's headpiece

A bespoke headpiece client example

One of my favourite clients was Laura who commissioned me a few years ago to create a custom headpiece using some family heirloom tartan which had belonged to her late grandmother. So it was incredibly important to get the design right and to showcase the fabric.

Laura and I worked together to create something that was perfect for her dress but to also use the fabric in the best way. I sketched a few ideas initially and we then narrowed it down to the final design. I try to do a colour sketch where possible so that the client can see their design as close to what it will be when it's made for real.

Final design for Laura's headpiece

It is very important to me to get the design correct before I begin making. There is sometimes a bit of negotiation on fabrics and what will work best but I tend to find that clients trust me because of my experience in interpreting designs. My soul aim is always to make sure the client is happy throughout the design process. I keep them up to date with fabric samples, photos of the hat in progress, fittings etc so that they are fully aware of the whole approach to their ideas. I want the client to feel happy with their headpiece, that they are wearing something very special, that is has been made with care and attention to the highest quality and that the whole experience from start to finish has been smooth, stress free and joyful!

To learn more about my work visit my bespoke designs page for previous customers and contact here to have a chat about your hat ideas!